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Tanna - Land of
Resolution
5.15.04
Contributor: BlindFreddy |
The island of Tanna is located in the
Southern Tafea province in Vanuatu. It's approximately 20,000 residents come
from many tribal backgrounds including the unusual Jon Frum cargo cult. One of
Tanna's most famous attractions is the Yasur volcano, said to be one of the most
accessible in the world. Nekoviar the largest festival in all of Vanuatu,
and home of the Toka
kastom dance, is held on Tanna every 3 to 4 years, although smaller
festivals and dances are held more often to celebrate the various touchstones of
life.
The night
glow from Tanna's active volcano Yasur, acting as a lighthouse beacon, drew the
first Europeans to Tanna's shores in 1774, when Captain James Cook appeared with
his sailing vessel the HMS Resolution. Cook landed at the Southeastern corner of
Tanna and promptly named the bay Port Resolution. The following one hundred
years brought Traders, Missionaries and other foreign influences. To their
credit, the Tanna ni-vanuatu have retained much of their culture and
traditions.
A trip from Port Resolution, over the mountain pass
and across the island to Lenakel, a custom entry point on the West coast of
Tanna, gives an excellent sampling of the wonders of Tanna. The mode of
transportation common to Tanna seems to be the 'truk-taxi'. And one of the
'go-to-guys' in Port Resolution seems to be Willy the taxi driver.
Of course,
Yasur
volcano is one of the highlights of any visit to Tanna. Yasir is much more
active in the wet seasons when ground water interacts with the Earth's thermal
forces. At times, Yasur is closed to access for safety reasons, due to molten
boulders thrown in wide dispersal, including the visitor parking area. The
summit of Yasur is only about a thousand feet and a hike to view the rim of the
active crater is but a half hour at most. But the danger is very real, as
several people have died recently when venturing too close to the active vents
spewing molten lava and boulders. Fortunately the volcano is closely monitored
and is accessible in varying safety parameters according to conditions. With
Tanna being but an hour's flight from Port Vila, perhaps even the Final three
Survivors will journey here for tribute to their fallen comrades, or possibly
other Survivors will enjoy Tanna on one of the several Reward getaways.
The prime viewing opportunity is with an afternoon
hike that allows an evening sunset viewing and the ensuing nighttime lava
fireworks of Yasur. With such a magical display, it's no wonder that Yasur has
always held a special place in the hearts of the Tanna people. Visitors from far
and wide, starting with Captain Cook in 1774, have been drawn by this glowing
beacon of mother nature.
North of Port Resolution lies Sulphur Bay, the site of Ipeukel, one of
the Jon Frum villages. Here villagers gather to perform colorful dances on
Friday evenings. Related Jon Frum celebrations are held periodically throughout
the year, with Jon Frum Day, February 15th being the center point of events. As
Sulphur Bay lies within the range of Yasur's 'ash shadow', it is the recipient
of fertile earth for its gardens and fields. Another benefit of the nearby
volcano, comes in the form of thermal hot springs near the
village, where warm baths and the village laundry are done.
Any journey across the island would be incomplete without a visit to
experience one of the traditional Tanna villages such as Yaohnanen and Yankel.
In these villages the kastom life is practiced and the nambas and grass skirts
are worn year round as opposed to most Tannese who wear the traditional garb
only for dances or special occasions. The thatched houses of the villages,
typically sit among the huge Banyan trees seen many places on Tanna's interior.
The kastom traditions of the Tanna people are kept alive through the daily life
practices and special occasion celebrations remembered through kastom dances and
storytelling.
As the dirt
track winds its way over the mountain passes of Tanna's ranges, the views of
Tanna are spectacular, as seen in this short video clip. However as close as some of the
distances might seem, travel other than via the road is a lengthy journey. Along
the way 'bush markets' appear at infrequent villages supplying vegetables and
basics of life to those living close enough to access them.
Eventually the town of Lenakel is reached where a sizable population
lives and supplies are regularly received via boat transport and the nearby
airstrip. Lenakel serves as Tanna's portal to the rest of Vanuatu and hosts a
large market with fresh fruit and vegetables of all types. Tanna and
Vanuatu government offices are located here as well, providing a Southern entry
point for yachters visiting from the Fiji Islands which lie to the
East.
Jon Frum Cargo Cult
The
origin of the Jon Frum movement is believed to have started in the mid 1930's
when an American Army presence, which had built a base on Efate, recruited about
a thousand Tanna men to work there. Their observances of the many supplies,
equipment and Afro-American GIs left a distinct impression on the Tanna
workers. And when towards the end of WWII, the American Army departed leaving
behind some supplies, the Tanna people anticipated their return. The avenue of
these supplies was of course via Army aircargo transport. The Tanna villagers
viewed the 'huge bird' and all the cargo, much of it marked as Red Cross Relief
supplies, as manna from a higher power. The legend goes that when an American
soldier was asked what people they were...the answer of "John from
America", evolved into the Jon Frum cargo cult movement.
The Jon
Frums believe that Jon Frum is living in the crater of the Yasur volcano with
five to twenty thousand men, waiting to return to the villages with gifts and
supplies. The center of the Jon Frum movement today is in Ipewukel village at
Sulphur Bay. The Jon Frums have focused their beliefs on the WWII American
presence and tied the gift of supplies to a mythical US GI named Jon Frum. As a
result many the trappings of the US presence are incorporated into the
movement's activities. One such item is the Red Cross, which is used as the
sacred centerpiece in the movement's church.
Jon
Frum supporters gather every Friday evening to dance and support the movement.
The fifteenth of February is Jon Frum Day and the people of Sulphur Bay pay
tribute to him with gifts of flowers and prayers at the foot of the Red Cross.
They believe that Jon Frum will return, bringing with him all the cargo gifts
promised from long ago to enrich the faithful villagers. On Jon Frum Day,
raisings of the American flag are celebrated and a military parade is offered to
honor Jon Frum. Usually about one hundred men march dressed in American Army
memorabilia carrying bamboo rifles painted with red bayonets, under the command
of tribal elders dressed as US Army sergeants.
The Jon Frum cargo cult considers its allegiance to Jon Frum and
consider themselves an army of Tanna. They exercise this allegiance periodically
by objecting to governmental control by the officials in Port Vila. The
followers of Jon Frum have over the years built warehouses, landing strips and
bamboo radio towers in preparation of the arrival of air cargo from Jon Frum.
The belief is that if the rituals and beliefs are adhered to tightly, that
someday Jon Frum will return and bless the loyal followers with wealth in the
form of various cargo items.
At first the leaders of the movement were punished
with imprisonment without trial, but this only produced
martyrs and strengthened the growing movement. Finally on February 15th, 1957,
the villagers of Sulphur Bay declared the Jon Frum movement as here to stay with
the raising of the American flag and the setting aside of Jon Frum Day for
celebration. The movement is still celebrated to the day in various parts
of Tanna and has become one of the more interesting parts of the many faceted
Vanuatu culture.
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